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Patrick’s Perfumes: oud – the love it or hate it fragrance
by Patrick Bardelli
Patrick's perfumes: «Oud Wood» by Tom Ford has two problems
3.12.2021
Translation: Eva Francis
Pictures: Patrick Bardelli
A perfume is a work of art, perfumers are artists and I’m a collector of their creations. Tom Ford's «Oud Wood» is fantastic, but has two catches.
It was one of those moments. It must have been about half a year ago. I couldn’t resist going into my favourite perfumery. The plan was to have a look around and maybe pick up a sample or two. I went home with 30 millilitres of Tom Ford's «Oud Wood» from his Private Blend Collection. After this completely unnecessary impulse buy, I placed the fragrance in my drawer and never used it.
The issue with Tom Ford's «Oud Wood»
Problem number 2? «Oud Wood» by Tom Ford doesn’t contain natural oud. I’m not the one who claims this, but the reviewer in the video below. At a price of just under 150 francs for 30 millilitres, I feel ripped off by Mr Ford – or let’s say the Estée Lauder Company, which has owned the brand for many years. Either give me natural oud or a better price.
What does oud smell like?
The scent is intense and polarising. You either love it or not – there’s no in between. It’s animalic and sexy and has a warm, woody note. By the way, perfumes with the valuable ingredient oud are best applied to your Adam's apple. The vibration when speaking creates warmth, which makes the scent more intense.
Tradition in the Orient
In the Orient, oud has been a coveted raw material for 2,000 years. It comes from the resin of the Southeast Asian agar tree and is produced only when the tree is infected with a particular type of mould. The tree protects itself by producing a dark, scented resin. This resin-soaked wood is what the precious oud, which can cost tens of thousands of francs per kilo, is made of. Depending on the age and habitat of the tree, the scent can vary greatly.
Hype in the West
The oud hype has been going on for 20 years. At least here in the West. In 2002, «M7» by Yves Saint Laurent was launched with a highly acclaimed advertising campaign featuring a naked man. Who designed «M7»? Tom Ford.
In 2007, the fashion designer then launched the perfume «Oud Wood» as part of his Tom Ford Private Blend Collection. He commissioned Richard Harpin, who’s also designed fragrances for Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.
Oud as far as the eye can see
The other day, I was in my favourite perfumery again to sample Tom Ford's «Oud Wood Intense», hoping that this scent would last longer on my skin. It didn’t. Besides, I didn't like the intense version at all. It has a strong leather scent, too strong, in my opinion, and it costs even more than «Oud Wood».
Oh and yes, I left with 30 millilitres of Tom Ford's «Tobacco Oud Intense». I’m just Hooked on scrumptious scents. But that's a story for another time.
My name is Patrick. Patrick Bardelli. Not Süskind, like the author of the book «Perfume». But I’m also a great lover of perfumes and I regularly write about good and bad fragrances. Want to enjoy my literary odour? Follow my author profile. Or let’s say: follow your nose.
Patrick Bardelli
Senior Editor
Patrick.Bardelli@digitecgalaxus.chFrom radio journalist to product tester and storyteller, jogger to gravel bike novice and fitness enthusiast with barbells and dumbbells. I'm excited to see where the journey'll take me next.
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