The region of longing and enjoyment, Istria, is almost at your doorstep: with hundreds of kilometers of dream coastline and crystal-clear water, medieval mountain villages, and Venetian-influenced harbor towns, with gentle olive groves and diverse cuisine. Silvia Trippolt-Maderbacher reveals where gourmets tie their napkins, where a vampire roams, what a beauty contest for goats is all about, where fresh oysters await, and where quiet cycling paths invite you to explore the hinterland.