Beyond the colorful chaos, there are innovative construction projects, lush green spaces, top-notch museums, and a delicious selection of restaurants and bars. The South Korean capital is vibrant and sprawling; it is a 24-hour city that houses about 10 million people and is filled with brightly lit billboards, skyscrapers, and shops. The Monocle Guide to Seoul looks beyond the dazzling lights to uncover what and who has propelled this late-blooming city into the 21st century. Its streets can be challenging to navigate, but the residents of Seoul transform them into an accessible and playful metropolis that respects its roots while embracing the future. We have gathered our favorite architectural achievements—from a women’s university to an ivy-covered brick church—and sipped our way through the trendiest cafés, including one in an old printing house. The hotels we would love to settle into are diverse.