The pearl of the Basque Atlantic coast, a city between tradition and modernity, between the romantic atmosphere of the Belle Époque and a dynamic spirit of renewal, characterized by unwavering local patriotism and cosmopolitan openness. In around 30 reports, portraits, and interviews, the authors take their readers into pintxo bars and txokos, typical men's cooking clubs, to the International Film Festival and the traditional drumming parades. They accompany them to the legendary city beaches, visit aspiring star chefs, and are seduced by the rugged charm of eloquent hosts.