Bolivia, the great Indian state between Brazil and Peru, is perfect for those who want to venture off the well-trodden traveler paths in South America. Whether it's Lake Titicaca, the Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flat in the Americas, the tropical Yungas valleys, or the snow-capped six-thousanders, magnificent natural spaces open up everywhere. The sanctuary of Tiwanaku stands as a testament to pre-Hispanic cultures, while the "Rich Mountain" Cerro Rico, which dominates the Andean city of Potosí, painfully reminds us of the colonial past. What would have happened if a shepherd named Huallpa had never lost a llama in the mountains, spent the night on the slopes of the mountain, lit a campfire, and discovered melted silver around the fire pit the next morning? It was the "Silver Miracle" that reached the ears of the Spaniards. The journey through Bolivia continues to the colonial capital, Sucre.