In October, I saw the Black Sea for the first time. Thus begins this unusual exploration of Crimea, that peninsula between Asia and Europe, between ancient grandeur and romantic cliché, between poverty and splendor. Together with the Scottish translator and writer Martin Chalmers, Esther Kinsky undertook a journey into this in-between world in October 2013, which becomes immediately tangible for the reader through her perspective and her extraordinary ability to perceive and describe. Harsh winds, rattling windows, stray horses, and drunken revelers: we find ourselves in a foreign nature and are confronted with an unfamiliar culture. The second voice in this virtuoso landscape book is shaped by Chalmers' very different quest for understanding: Where do we come from, where are we going? His thoughtful historical excavations complement Kinsky's narrative.