Vienna is known as the city of music and as a still-glimmering center of the fallen Habsburg monarchy. Others define it as the world capital of grumblers and complainers, of Heurigen bliss and casual coziness. Which of these is true? With journalistic precision, Hubert Nowak investigates many clichés, dissects them, and discovers how this city has come to terms with its history and reputation - and even thrives because of it. He views Vienna from both above and below, from the scaffolding of the still unfinished St. Stephen's Cathedral and from underground tombs. He connects the dots from the beloved Augustin to Heldenplatz, the mistress of history. He visits the best recording studio in the world and the oldest cinema, analyzes new trends in Viennese songs, and lets the palate rejoice over the Martin goose. Mummies tell of the close relationship of the Viennese with death.