Paris has a unique scent - it smells of macarons and madeleines, of charming courtyards perfect for strolling, of traditional bookstores, and of the lifeblood of the Seine. Bettina de Cosnac visits the Élysée Palace and its eccentric residents, embarks on a quest for the lost poetry of a café visit, and explores the structures of the conservative Académie Française. She visits famous photography studios and recounts a historic Christmas in the Tuileries, meets Parisian women with a keen sense of style, and reads men's fashion magazines, marveling not only at the timeless modernity of the Eiffel Tower.