Camel and Ferrari, veil and ski hall: In the Emirates, tradition and modernity merge. Felicia Englmann, who learned Gulf Arabic in Dubai, dives into this adventure of contrasts. She rides an abra across Dubai Creek, enjoys the view from the Burj Khalifa, and visits a falconry clinic. She explains how to survive in Dubai's traffic, what conservation means in the Emirates, and what to keep in mind when visiting a mosque. She introduces the contemplative metropolis of Abu Dhabi, its vibrant competitor Dubai, and meets Emiratis in a Sleeping Beauty slumber; she writes about the independence of women, who are often underestimated behind their veils, and about a way of life where failure is not part of the concept.