On the search for Byron's shoes. On a map of present-day Greece, one searches in vain for Rumeli. Centuries ago, this term referred to the northern part of the country, from the Bosporus to the Adriatic and from Macedonia to the Gulf of Corinth. Enticed by the exoticism and beauty of the name "Rumeli," Patrick Leigh Fermor travels through this region. His hikes in northern Greece take him among the fascinating Sarakatsani, to the monastery of Meteora, and to Messolonghi, where he sets out to find Byron's shoes. When he actually finds them, he is met with a great surprise, as so often happens on his journeys.